Welcome back to A-Bay

Monday September 13th, we arrived for the second time in Arugam Bay and once again chose to stay at the Sea Rider. The Sea Rider was pretty much the same as we left it two weeks before, with only a few significant changes. John, the "itchy" puppy had escaped and was replaced by a new, less "itchy" puppy named Jimmy. You may be led to believe that with a name like Jimmy the dog was a boy, but apparently Jimmy is a fine name for any Sri Lankan dog, male or female. Another new development at the Sea Rider was a tightened security regiment - with a new sign in/out log book being added to the previously existing all-hours gate lock down. The sign in/out could not possibly be effective as any thief wouldn't be signing in, and it just served as an inconvenience to any visitors we had. Ralph was like a pitbull on a bone whenever it came to making anyone sign, and it got to be quite annoying.

It was a little sad showing up to find that our friends were no longer there, but it didn't take us long to fill the void of their absence with new friendships. The group that we found consisted of John (a British med intern), Penny (a Phd student in medical economics), Raphael (a well traveled French landmine removal expert), Ashan (also working to remove landmines in the north - Sri Lankan born, but raised in the UK), and Isabelle (also from the UK - in Sri Lanka for love). As soon as we sat down we were offered a round of cold beers, which were very well received after a long, hot, dirty day of bus travel. Alice, being the well raised girl that she is, took the time to shower and to put on clean clothes before inflicting herself upon our new acquaintances...I did not, and neglected to shake Isabelle's hand for fear of contamination. I was that dirty.

The next morning, the group at the Sea Rider had planned an excursion to a nearby monastery nestled atop the hills near Crocodile Lake (where Alice previously chanced fate in the boat of a local man). We were invited along and piled in the back of a pickup, which belonged to a friend of Ashan and Isabelle, possibly named Larry - but Alice and I can't be sure. The ride out was really cool as Isabelle was a novice birdwatcher and seemed able to name most of the birds we drove by. The wind was warm, the sun was shining, and it was a really great 'safari' like experience as we drove past herds of water buffalo wallowing in mud holes, and walking along the rural road. After going through a security check, and being given an unidentified package to deliver to the guards at the base of hill, we arrived at the monastery. Osk, "Larry's" partner brought bags full of biscuits and fruit to give to the monks who are totally reliant on donations for their sustenance as they do not handle money. The trail leading up the monastery was under construction and there was a sign in Sinhalese (translated by "Larry") near a pile of sand asking pilgrims to fill a bag and haul it up the hill, so we did. There was only one old monk at the monastery when we arrived. He was laying on his back reading a newspaper, and was so deaf that "Larry" had to yell at him in order to gain his attention. From there we climbed a huge rock that provided sweeping views of the ocean, jungle and rocky hills from the top. The climb up was very steep, and we had to do it barefoot as you are not permitted to wear footwear on monastic grounds. We climbed at midday, when the sun was the hottest, and you could have easily cooked an egg on the rock - it was so hot. Our feet burned with every step, and whenever a patch of shade was available we took refuge for a minute before carrying on. (It wasn't until we had ascended and descended the steep rock face that we were told that there was an easy path on the other side of the hill.) The view from the top was breath taking, and the spiritual energy at the top was overwhelming. The wind blew so hard and hot that it occasionally forced you to hold your footing. You could see the village of Arugam Bay, all the surfing points, sky in all directions, and rocky hills home to monks and hermits. Even though we have visited dozens of temples and holy sites, Alice and I both agree that it was one of the most sacred places we have come across in our travels. Simple, natural, beautiful.


Near the monastery


Alice on top of the rock

We then went to Crocodile Lake where we saw tons of crocodiles basking in the sun, mouths open, teeth bared. Seriously. Lots. We saw probably ten or so, but like any good yarn, by the time we get home the number will be in the thousands and they will have nearly eaten Ashan.


Crocodiles!

That evening we all went for dinner, which was kind of an ordeal because we were such a large group, and all so modest that no one wanted to take the initiative to chose a place and force their will upon the rest of the group. We went to one place and didn't like the look of it, left, went to another place only to leave it and return to the first place. We could agree that we were in the mood for seafood - a fairly simple request considering our proximity to the sea. We asked the man working at the second place we visited if they had seafood, and he said "yes, cuttle fish, etc.", so we sat down. When it came time to order, each and every seafood item requested (with the exception of tuna) was denied with the explanation "sorry, cuttle fish not possible...sorry, prawns not possible...sorry, seer fish not possible."

Throughout the day the group placed various wagers on things...on who would be the last down the rock, and what time dinner would arrive, etc... It is a practice that Alice and I are considering picking up and it made for a little excitement, especially around meal time.

The next day we said our goodbyes as the group department on their way, but I am sure we will keep in touch as they were all such awesome people.