Bali to Trawangan, Gili Islands

July 27th, 2010 Trawangan - Gili Islands

"Welcome back home" was what we were greeted with as we stepped off the boat at the Trawangan harbor. Our trip to this little island paradise took us 12 hours by bus, ferry, another bus, and a final second boat, but it was worth it. There is a Jamaican feel here with reggae vibes a flowin' and locals with dreadlocks who are eager to offer passing tourists "smoke". This island seems to have more cats than people, all of which we assume to be inbred given their messed up tails and the small size of the island (the cats, not the people). There are about 1000 local residents, no cars or motorbikes, only bikes and horse drawn carts. There are no police here which inspires a very care-free atmosphere.

When we got off the boat we asked a local to direct us to cheap accommodation. We were directed down an alley and shown a little bungalow. It seemed sufficient for the time being as we were really tired from the 12 hour trip and just needed a bed. We only stayed there one night as when the sun came up (according to Alice it was 4am - but I don't think so) a half dozen or so roosters outside our door were having an unofficial cock-a-doodle competition. Muirhead wasn't having it! Given that Muirhead needs her sleep - my happiness depends on it - we packed up and move on in search of greener - chickenless - pastures. We found a much better place a couple blocks back off the main drag called Pondok Twin's Garden.

(view from our patio)

It is a peaceful, beautiful, and well run little family place with great breakfasts, a hammock, and super friendly staff. The only thing that disturbs the peace is the call to prayer, broadcast over a loudspeaker, 5 times each day. The hotel is just around the corner from the mosque, but we'll take the Arabic calls over the call of the roosters any day of the week. The family that runs the hotel even prepared a special BBQ one night for the guests - something that they said was special and doesn't happen all the time. It was delicious! Muirhead missed out because she didn't want to miss Matt Damon's thrilling portrayal of Jason Bourne at the local cinema (I know, right).

(Ship wreck in the background)

There isn't much to do here other than sit on the beach, snorkel, eat and drink, and run around the island (it only takes 40 minutes to jog around the whole thing). We spent one day snorkeling and saw lots of big turtles. We started our snorkel day in the morning but got stung by too many little jellyfish to make it very enjoyable, so we retired to the beach until the afternoon when the water was jellyfish free.

(Trawangan Harbor - The island of Lombok in the background)

We've been reunited (and it feels so goooood...) with all of the people that we met in Java and Bali (everyone) - the Dutch, the Germans - and also made new friends with a bunch of English and Irish girls.

(Friends)

There are two outdoor cinemas here which we have patroned twice. The movies are free as long as you buy food or drink. While watching the movie "Brothers" (terrible - fyi), I ordered a bowl of locally made vanilla ice cream. When I placed my order the waiter clarified that I only wanted vanilla, not strawberry, not chocolate - three scoops. After about 5 minutes he came back and asked "what was your order?", and we repeated the process. About 5 minutes later he returned as asked again "what was your order?" and for the third time I said "three scoops of vanilla". He asked "no chocolate?", I said "no". About 5 minutes later, he returned and said "I'm sorry, we don't have chocolate." Alice and I laughed nearly falling from our high chairs, and I said "don't worry, I'll have vanilla." When it eventually arrived the waiter offered it to our neighbors, and then to Alice before it finally, after a long wait, landed in my mouth.

Yesterday a torrential downpour, which began the night before, raged throughout the day. By the time we ventured outside of the relative safety of our thatched restaurant booth, where we spent the entire afternoon, the streets were flooded to about shin height. By 9 pm the water was up to Muirhead's knee. We went into a local Warung (food place) down a dirty, stinky alley (remember the horses?), with the water getting higher by the minute. When you enter the Warung it is generally accepted that you leave your sandals outside the front door. By the time we emerged from the Warung Muirhead was less one sandal. The rain was pouring more than it had all day, we were forced to huddle under a single umbrella (which we *borrowed* from our hotel), and we had to trudge through a brown river of who knows what to find Muirhead's orphan footwear. I had given up, but out of some womanly attachment to shoes - no matter how flimsy or worn - she insisted we find it. Fortunately we had a flashlight - thanks Tom Muirhead - and we located the shoe about 20 feet down river nestled in a pile of garbage. Today it is sunny as if yesterday never happened. We are happy to be dry!

We're leaving on the 29th to go back to Bali where we will catch a flight back to Jakarta to do some laundry and hit the pool at Adrian's place. We'll be leaving Jakarta on the 4th to head to Sri Lanka. We may arrange to have a layover of a couple days in Kuala Lumpur to visit some Dutch girls we met here who will be doing a 7 week medical internship at a hospital there.

Hope all is well back home. Sorry that there aren't any pictures. We'll post some in Jakarta...(posted now!)